宋代流行斗茶
按照宋徽宗《大观茶论》中记载,点茶注水的次数要达到六至七次,每一次注水的量、角度、方向都有不同要求。煮水的过程也讲究三沸,但因为瓶口很小,看不到气泡,只能凭其声音来辨别,所以一沸为“砌虫万蝉”,听起来好像墙角的虫儿叫、树上的蝉儿鸣﹔二沸为“千车捆载”,好像很多车子拉著重物驶过来了﹔三沸为“松风涧水”,好像风儿吹过松林,山涧流水潺潺。
见见还发展出了斗茶法:一斗谁的茶好﹔二斗谁的点茶技术高。
斗茶也分阶段,第一阶段斗香斗味,比的是茶本身的香气和滋味﹔第二阶段斗色斗浮,比的是茶的颜色和浮起来的汤花情况。汤花有三好:一是越白越好﹔二是越厚越好﹔三是停留的时间越长越好,在诗词里面形容为“灿若积雪”。因此,宋代时候黑釉盏比较流行,盏身的黑可以反衬出汤花的白,同时,由于黑釉盏比较厚,更能保温,可以让汤花停留的时间长一些。
由此可见,宋代的点茶、斗茶,简直是一种仪式感非常强的行为艺术了。
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